Torsion bar Bushes

Torsion bar bushes

A challenging job to do. Homemade pullers are essential to remove the old bushes and press in the new ones. It's a splined shaft with a notch, so essential to line up the notch on the torsion bar spline and the swing arm. The notch lines up with the hole for the split pin and is at 90 degrees to the adjusting arm at the other end.

Its necessary to remove the upper suspension arm and helpful to remove the lower bump stop.

You need to remove the rear bracket holding the suspension bar. However there is a rivet in the way. So you also need to loosen the front part of the bracket to give the rear enough play.

I made a puller with 12mm threaded bar vaious 1/2 inch drive sockets and a strong  mm washer. The thick metal disk on the end is useful to start the bushes moving.

Parts

front bush 60143420 Vexi £36.24 (Bison Parts BP109-083 £9.83)
rear bush 60143421 Vexi £36.58 (Bispon Parts IVSP0056 £14.72 )
Castellated nut M156x1.5 (£6.95 on Ebay for a pair plus split pin)
Ball joint nut M18x1.5
tie bar nut M16x1.5


Comments

  1. suonama21 May 2020 at 14:59

    we have front bush and rear bush castellated nut ball joint nut tie bar nut.
    https://www.suonama.com.cn

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Fuel tank

Image
The original daily had a fuel tank of about 60ltr I needed to extend the range (we do about 20mpg) and wanted to stay with Iveco parts as much as possible. So chose a tank from a 7.5 Eurocargo from a scrap yard for £40. collecting the tank: new straps painted and ready to assemble: In place on the Tardis: best decision staying with Iveco, all the electrics and fixings worked easily... worst decision picking a tank without a locking fuel cap We can now do over 1000 km without filling up, enough to drive all through Spain on Moroccan fuel at 60p a ltr.
Read more

Alternator upgrade

Image
Alternator failed again (lasted 5 years). Did some research and got a lot of help from Grahame on an upgrade to a 90Amp version (from 55Amp). Note that the Sterling B2B is rated at 50Amp so it could be drawing power at the alternator maximum for long periods. That should not be so serious now that I have 280W solar as well. Alternator model: Lucas LRB197 (Bosc 0986035770) Needs longer brackets  - 40mm longer, obtained by buying two new ones (Vexi were selling them for £2.55 to clear stock). Welded beautiful by Lee at work. Two different part numbers for alternator bracket. Mine was 99449305   Longer fan belt 10 x 950mm All in place Issues: It was to awkward to put in a bigger cable from alternator to the starter motor (main battery connection). I may do a separate longer cable back to the battery. The ignition light does not come on until the alternator is energized by the revs going up to 1500. People say this is not a problem. A potential fix is to put...
Read more

Cold Start system Thermostarter

Image
November 2020 Update See notes further down for the latest. The Iveco has a cold start system, or so I thought. But the pattern of flashing lights when I started was not the pre heater, but an error code. The cold start system was not connected. It is now. Our engines don't have glow plugs. Instead there is a single preheater that heats up some diesel fuel and squirts it into the air inlet. It works below zero. The unit does so diagnostic tests and flashes the pre heat light to show the outcome. Normally the light goes on for a couple of seconds and then off. The electronic manual on Ivecodaily4x4@groups.io posted by Hugo has an invaluable diagnostic guide. There is a module behind the fuse box that takes the signals in and send power to the preheater. In my case the main power cable was missing. Also the crucial temperature sensor was faulty. A new one solved the problem. No error codes now. Iveco Daily Genuine Iveco Coolant Temperature Sensor Part No.4857248 5010293265 £18 from V...
Read more